País de la Monarca...Monarch Country

Apologies in advance but this is a pretty long post with tons of pictures.

Kris and I decided to take the boys out to Michoacán when we found out we were so close to the end migration sites of the Monarch Butterfly. These monarchs, from the east of the Rocky Mountains, (those west of the Rockies migrate to California) have traveled as far as 3000 miles from the United States and Canada so of course we had to check it out.

The D.F. is where the red square is. The state of Michoacán is highlighted in yellow.



We left Friday afternoon for a scenic 2 hour drive from the D.F. out to Angangueo, Michoacán. Angangueo is a very old and small municipality (and former mining town!) in eastern Michoacán, 8622 feet in altitude, surrounded by amazing and beautiful Oyamel Fir and oak forests. The Oyamel, Abies religiosa or Sacred Fir, is preferred by the monarch colonies to hibernate in.

In this map, I have underlined in red the city of Angangueo.



I had researched several hotels in the area and settled on the "3 star" Hotel Don Bruno, reviewed as THE BEST hotel in the area including the neighboring town of Ocampo. Keep in mind, there were no "4 star" hotels to speak of not that I think the ratings mean much out here.

We found the hotel pretty easily, checked into our 2 double-bed room (not much choice when it came to number of beds) and realized quickly: to say this was going to be a rustic experience...would be an understatement. As we opened the door, we were hit with a blast of eau de rouille (or mildew, if you don't speak French). I told Kris it smelled like an ancient down sleeping bag that had been locked up in an airtight cabin in the woods. Kris said "it smells...earthy"











The hotel was BEYOND charming and we didn't care that it was so rustic, in fact, it made it that much more exciting for us and the boys. No TV, no telephones, no heat. Some of the rooms had fireplaces and from what I understand, were not as damp, if you were in the 2nd floor rooms but they were already occupied. Through my online research I already knew there would be no heat so I came prepared with 2 space heaters. Because of the damp mountain air, the blankets, sheets and pillows were completely damp so I was also grateful that I went with that little voice in my head that said "bring your own bedding". I may have over packed, and Kris may have given me a bad time for it but in the end: I WAS RIGHT! I will mention that the first thing the kids and I did was check for bed bugs. Click here for the lesson we learned about bed bugs! The mattresses looked brand new and no evidence of bed bugs in sight!



We settled in, the boys in one of the double beds (Weston is so tall we put a small coffee table topped with pillows for him to rest his feet on), Kris and I in the other...glad we don't mind being so close to each other. It had such a rustic cabin feel (but with a bathroom) so we felt like we were camping.

We woke early and were refreshed even though none of us slept very well. I kept waking up to crank up the heaters but the dampness just soaked through everything. It was so much like waking up to the morning dew in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado on our family camping trips there...but we were in Mexico's Sierra Nevada...the Trans-Mexico Volcanic Belt! Surreal.







We breakfasted in the hotel's restaurant. Fabulous Mexican hot chocolate and fresh squeezed orange juice. The boys had scrambled eggs and bacon.




Look at Jamison's face in this picture. I caught him right as he was about to sneeze! And yes once he did, hot chocolate went flying!



I had my favorite breakfast; chilaquiles (CHEE-la KEE-lays). I prefer the chilaquiles verdes but these were chilaquiles rojos. Spicy as all get out, enough to make my eyes water which is pretty darn spicy.
So what the heck are they? If I describe them you will probably gross out but trust me, they ARE what's for breakfast in our area of Mexico. Think slightly stale fried corn tortillas simmered in green or red chili sauce until they just get slightly soft but are still a bit chewy. Serve topped with eggs or shredded chicken (I prefer scrambled eggs), white onion slices, queso fresco and crema. Every home or restaurant does it slightly different so there isn't an etched in stone recipe. They taste similar to enchiladas but still different. It took me a while to finally try them, without gagging at the thought of trying them, but once I did it was all over.



We made our way through Angangueo and further north towards the Sierra Chincua Monarch Sanctuary, another 45 minute drive or so. It was breathtaking to see how high we were. The base of the sanctuary was a pastoral set up of shacks as well as a fenced area where you could rent horses to take you up to the area where the monarchs were. You could ride up or hike up, the hike would take over an hour but Kris and I decided to go with the horse option because it was so darn cheap and the boys were really "chomping at the bit" (ha ha) for a chance to ride them.



It was an hour ride up on horseback, and another 30 minute hike to the butterflies. I forgot how much I enjoy riding horses not to mention the smell of leather and horse poo...reminds me of my grandparent's ranch in Oregon. Being over 5 months pregnant I thought I did pretty well between the horse ride and hike. As you can see from the pictures it wasn't a straight flat shot. We actually rode and climbed an additional 2000 feet in altitude (according to our guide). I wasn't in any pain but talk about a rough time breathing! Kris mentioned the same thing and I was glad I brought Braedon's asthma inhaler! Towards the top of the sanctuary you could get a clear view of how high we were.



The boys were having a great time on horseback. Jamison fell asleep twice on the ride up. (FYI, I did speak to my OB before we made the trip and she said the horses would be fine for me to ride, after all, "the roads in Mexico City are bumpier than any horse ride as long as you aren't trotting")











I have to mention this Kelty backpack we have. It has turned out to be one of the best purchases I have ever made. I first saw it in a picture that friends had sent from one of their hikes where their daughter looked so comfortable, not to mention how comfortable it looked to wear. Kris used it for the first time on this hike (doesn't fit pregnant women too well so I can't use it again until I can get back into it) and he was able to carry Jamison quite easily. I love how it feels on and Kris said he was pretty comfortable as well. Jamison loves being able to see everything and from all the times he falls asleep in it, I'm guessing he's pretty comfortable as well. (Thanks again Jason and Melissa!)



Once there I was amazed at how many butterflies there were. I had no idea and this is only one of many sanctuaries in the area! When the weather is cooler they huddle together on the trunks of the Oyamel trees and hang like dead leaves from the branches. As the air warms up they fly everywhere landing on flowers for a meal of nectar. Unfortunately for this particular sanctuary (or maybe it's a good thing) you can't get close enough to where the butterflies are unless they decide to fly near you. There is another sanctuary we will be going to next year where you are right in the middle of the colony and completely surrounded rather than where we were, being on the outside and looking into the colony area.

In these pictures all of these scale looking things are the butterflies!







As usual, you could tell who the Mexicans were from the DF (Districto Federal or Federal District), they were the ones pushing and shoving everyone out of their way, being loud and obnoxious and acting like the spoiled brats they are. The other Mexicans around us were pretty vocal about how rude they were and we couldn't help but chuckle thinking "this is how Americans talk about those from New York City...or how those of us living in Fredericksburg would talk about those in Northern Virginia, too funny". I was happy that others noticed how well behaved our kids were compared to the DF brats. The boys just sat and enjoyed watching the butterflies through their binoculars while others enjoyed pulling the wings off butterflies they were able to catch or scream and run around like little monkeys.







Weston found a butterfly that had died and was closely examining it lamenting on how I should have brought the microscope. I promised the boys that if they collected some of the wings that were on the ground we would study them under the scope once we got home.

After enjoying the atmosphere, or as much as we could once the wave of D.F.ers ruined it all, we started back on the hike towards where the horses were waiting for us. Kris and I wanted to hike back so we could take our time and enjoy the area but the kids were pretty adamant about riding the horses again. On the way back, our guide told us his wife had a restaurant below if we were interested in eating once we got back. I told him that sounded great so he brought us to his wife's ummm, restaurant.





The temperature had cooled off quite a bit on our return trip alone so the boys enjoyed warming up by the stoves. (It snows up here!) We ordered our food and while it was being prepared, the father of the one other family there told our guide's wife to load our food with tons of hot chilis laughing himself silly in the process. Kris responded to him in Spanish "hmmm, that sounds like a great idea, thank you!" The guy lost his laugh immediately and then I said, also in Spanish "we've grown rather fond of chilis while living in Mexico, that does sound good". After several minutes the guy asked Kris "You speak Spanish? Where in Mexico do you live". Kris told him that we lived in the DF. The guy said he did to which I then told Kris under my breath "duh, he's a rude jerk, of course he does". He then added the icing to the cake by telling us "yea, I drive a Sitio Taxi" which is when Kris and I nearly lost it. Not only is he a rude jerk from the DF, he's a rude taxi driver as well!



They left and we were able to enjoy our meal in peace while enjoying our conversation with our guide's wife. She was so sweet and offered to make us anything else we wanted. As you can see from the pictures the place was about as rustic as you can possibly get. Even so, there was a china hutch in the corner of the room that looked so out of place. While she was asking if Kris and I would like some beef and rice with squash blossoms, she walked over to this hutch and opened the lower doors pulling out 2 plates heaped with beef. Kris and I both had eyes as big as platters as she showed us this meat that had been sitting in this china hutch for who knows how long. We told her we were fine with what we had already eaten (holy crap, we were going to be so sick!)

We stopped at some of the little tienda shacks that were selling souveniers so the boys could pick out some things. While I was finishing up our purchase and asking the sales woman a few questions, a woman pushed by, interupting me mid sentence, and started asking her several questions. I told the rude woman in Spanish "I'm sorry, she was helping me, I'll be done in a few minutes and you can then have her all to yourself without having to be rude and pushing me out of the way". Kris was standing right behind me and we both nearly burst out laughing in this woman's face...but then we would have sunk to her level. I would have said "Hey you rude twit, you can take your overdone collagen mouth in full pout and big huge bug-eyed looking Channel sunglasses back there and wait your turn." But I didn't know how to say "collgen" or "bug-eyed". Just one of the typical behaviors we have had to deal with but Kris and I have rather enjoyed being pretty vocal about not letting them get their way. It's been fun. The sales woman shook her head and said "las mujeres como ella no tienen verguenza" (women like her have no shame) and I had to agree. Just for that I paid her for 3 shirts even though I just bought 2.

As we drove out of the sanctuary, we saw a van with diplomatic plates making its way up the steep mountain road. I thought to myself, what are the chances that we know these guys? As they got closer we saw they were friends from church! I couldn't believe that we actually ran into friends from church clear out here in the mountains!

The drive home was uneventful, Kris and I both agreed that we felt like we had been camping for a week. Horses kick up a lot of dirt and a lot of it made it's way up our pant legs! The 'restaurant' was also full of soot so we were covered with that as well. Kris and I were both a little sore from the horses but nothing tylenol for me and motrin for him didn't take care of! The boys weren't sore at all. We got home, everyone took showers and spent the rest of the night talking about our trip next year. We are going to try the sanctuary near Valle de Bravo which is a town with a lake you can boat on...can't wait!